Falling in love with the mountains: GHNP

This post carries a piece published in Deccan Herald on 6^th June, 2017 - In the lap of nature, high on the mountains. 

Thanks are due to Sanju (and colleagues) for being with us throughout and the fun we had. Himalayan Ecotourism, Stephan Marchal and Sanjeeva Pandey helped with planning. Arpan forms the other half of the ‘we’ here.

All images in this post including that on the Deccan Herald website are taking during the trek by Nirlep Dhutwalia. A warm thank you for sharing your experiences then and images later.

The article on Deccan Herald here. Unedited text placed below.

With the bus engine roaring our second trip, within 12 months, to trek in the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP), had just begun. People fall in love with other people - we had trekked up and down its mountains to fall in love with GHNP. I sat besides the large window, staring out into the roads which looked unreal – quiet, empty and lights falling on them - as 9^th June met the 10^th. Late morning, after a long tunnel, we dropped off at Autt.

Image: Nirlep Dhutwalia

From Autt we went to Sainj by bus and then to Shangarh by a shared vehicle. Here we stayed at a Home Stay next to the famous meadows. They shared of how caste played a role in access to places in the village. Of caste and access we would be reminded of more than once during the week long trek. During night we kept the door open to get familiar with the chill! Sometime that evening my heart won over my mind; I would stay away from making detailed notes during the week and just be there. We were moving with minimal planning and without cameras, using public transport and trying to soak in the moment.

Walk began the next day Neuli, Niharni and then up – inside GHNP; a recent entrant to the list of World Heritage Sites. The Park has had a long journey, dotted with turmoil and success stories, one that conservation enthusiasts could learn a lot from. A journey where the first notification for the Park was issued during 1984 and the first management plan put in place during 1987. Our first day was easy and a pair of Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush greeted us as we began our walk downhill. At the camp-site we got a taste of the food for the trip – local. We had requested and re-requested the team for local food as opposed to noodles and their ilk. The menu would only get better as we moved. Of course, this would have meant the team put in far more efforts to carry and cook. Our familiarity (and friendship) with the team was on account of a trek previous year; during a different season along another route. Team is the Cooperative which runs the Ecotourism venture and Himalayan Ecotourism which helps with marketing.

Image: Nirlep Dhutwalia

Up towards Maror we crossed Shakti and saw Russet Sparrows frolicking on rooftops. We came across forest department built campuses in the middle of the proverbial ‘nowhere’. GHNP has almost no motorable roads but an extensive network of trekking route and huts. Also horses and other animals are not allowed to carry luggage. All this and more part of the conservation design to encourage and promote sustainable tourism beneficial for the locals! We wondered on the positive difference an interested and enthusiastic government officer could make! The crux possibly lay in putting time, moving around the landscape and interacting with the people.

The next camp-site was in a Thach – meadow - with fresh presence signs of the Himalayan Brown Bear! Did we want to come across the Himalayan Brown Bear - up close - all of a sudden outside our tent I asked my colleague! I got up sometime during the night and looked around! It was stunning. In a few minutes I started talking, initially with myself and then, as if, with near ones. How would it feel to sit and talk or soak in silences with them in this pleasant darkness and hold hands? Holding hands, that most underrated of actions depicting affection in a physical manner in today’s days of hugs and kisses!

Image: Nirlep Dhutwalia

Here we saw the snow covering the not very distant mountain tops. Next morning these salt and pepper tops would turn white, sparkling white of fresh snow. Over tea - and more tea - we chatted with the team on their ‘interesting’ (read funny) experiences with tourists. One of them had sought television in their tent for there was not much to do at night! The discussion then veered to wildlife. When we asked of Snow Leopard we were told the forest department had not been able to record its presence in camera traps over the years. The shepherds though tell her tales; tales of the cat with the thickest of tails. Park’s website says this of its mammals ‘The mammalian fauna of GHNP and its buffer zone is typical of the several eco-regions of the Western Himalaya. Mammalian diversity is significantly higher than other areas.’ GHNP was one of the first Parks, in the country, to get its website and logo.

The following day we were to go till a lake (Rakhtisar) but snow and hail did not allow us. It was cold, walking on the snow was not easy either. Difficult for me, team members – all locals - walked as if they were in Lodhi Gardens in Lyutens Delhi. Some snow patches were small and others large enough to cover the river which managed somehow to sneak from below! A chill ran through the body as I drank the flowing water. Then it rained and the team set-up fire as it drizzled. Soothing the warmth then felt, though immediately after the trousers got wet from brushing with the vegetation. Some of these experiences will turn to endearing memories.

Binoculars we put to use and saw more than a handful of summer visitors; birds coming up to escape the heat. These include the Blue-capped Rock Thrush, Scaly Thrush, Dark-sided Flycatcher and UItra-marine Flycatcher. Redstarts (White-capped, Blue-capped and Blue-fronted) shone in flowing water and Forktails (Little and Spotted) played merrily but amidst the birds of their kind Brown Dipper won our hearts. A resident, it could be one of the more unassuming of birds if one goes by looks but what it does or keeps on doing redefined pleasure for us. Sitting on rocks amidst the fast flowing glacial rivers and streams it suddenly dips in the water and emerges a few feet away before managing to get on the same or other rock. Such fun it would be to dip and dip again on that running, melting snow. It eats the insects and vegetation stuck to the stones I was told! The Park is also recognized as an Important Bird Area and ‘is particularly noted for its prolific pheasant populations.’

Image: Nirlep Dhutwalia

Coming back we took a detour along a longer route – 16 odd kms we trekked that day. The village Majhan was - to be brief – absolutely stunning. We saw the Black-and-yellow Grossbeak as we entered the village and the Grey-winged Blackbird as we left the next morning. By now we were comfortable with our shoes, bag (size, shape, weight) and happily managed the walk though we still used to wonder each evening on how the sun set so late: 7.45 pm. My colleague was keen to figure out route for the trek next year and got busy. I did what I did most evenings – nothing other than soaking in the mountain air and stare into the nothingness of the Himalayas.  

Route

Shangarh (1,700m) > Neuli (1,400m) > Niharni (1,500m) > Baha (1,700m)

Shakti (2,100m) > Maror (2,400m)

Parkachi Thach Meadows (2,900m)

Rakhtisar (3,400m) > Parkachi

Maror

Shakti  > Majhan (2,000m)

Niharni

    I.      

Image: Nirlep Dhutwalia