Tokalo : Day Three

Third day had us meeting people in the village ~ jotting basic socio-economic information on the villages (also a part of the trip agenda) and  getting an idea of wildlife and hunting scenario ~

Pigs and hen had amazing gusto and energy in the morning chorus – it also meant my getting out of the sleeping bag. After a nice cup of tea and somewhat quick, inadequate and awkward thanks, and I returned to the ‘previous house’. Confusions on the movement ahead made me feel all was ok and since food was some time away I moved to meet people in the village. Life guided by food time and aided by tea is a good life.

A musical instrument ~ first and last of its kind  I came across 

On Ra’s suggestion we went to a teacher’s house. I was fascinated by the trophies on the wall: hornbill casque, drongo feathers, turtle shell and barking deer horn! The house had a television too – in absence of electricity connection. Tokalo has electricity poles that have never experienced the feel of wires wound on them and therefore stand there perhaps serving some other purpose. Leaving Jo to talk with him I visited Ra’s house, having that shrinking feeling within me for the way I had treated him the way I did at Baghmara! Here we were called for lunch after which we were to leave for Bymari. Ra was to accompany us on a ‘daily basis’ for the survey.

The path towards Bymari was amazingly beautiful - we drove through a green carpet. It wasn’t a road (at all) but the ride was fun. We stopped at a couple of places to determine the location, position and take notes. We sighted the coucal and asian fairy blue bird; both very near to the pick-up and flying low. The landscape is stunning – it makes sense to just observe, just be and not fidget over photography and ornithology. I imagined a few of my friends accompanying me on this journey some time down the line! Well, up the road, a turn later stood Bymari.

Bymari turns about 3 times the size I had assumed for it. Also, the houses in Tokalo and Bymari are significantly bigger than those I saw and stayed at during the visit to Ahmypi and Khopai (gosh it’s almost a year to that amazing week!). The sweet tea we got reminded me of Garo Hills. The location, birds and the notes did not allow for rest. When Jo started chatting with the local secretary of the Church I moved out to other houses with Ra and Ja.

Similar for this catapult ~ not come across this after that day 

Loitering a little we spotted some tails on the outer wall of the house and moved in to the surprise of the inhabitants. This fellow was surprising (to put mildly); a shell of the south east asian giant turtle housed shoes of the family. The tails on the wall ranged from the hoary-bellied himalayan squirrel to the malayan giant squirrel. There was another that made me return to his house with a field guide – a mongoose he pointed. While serow is found in pairs on cliffs near Tokalo the mongoose (he pointed to the Crab Eating Mongoose) was from near the Tika river. On seeing hornbill feathers we saw the page in the field guide and to my surprise he was confident that the brown hornbill occurred in the forests around. The trap that crushes mammals, mankhong, was not only discussed but also demonstrated using the bamboo available around. What is it which has the people here discuss hunting and trapping without inhibitions? Ignorance of laws, not being bothered of laws, being cut-off, confidence from owning the land (this is a schedule 6 area), abundance of wildlife, religion, or else?

Moving from his house, after some more loitering we reached the middle school. The litter on the approach road reminded me of the European picture post cards! The huge trees had a lot of birds noisily enjoying themselves and while Ra tried his hand on the binoculars with a large smile Ja ended up spotting minivets and black drongos. The school itself was a sad story; one large hall with separate doors for each class. Each of these classes separated by a 2 to 3 feet high bamboo wall. The stunning pathway leading to the school will remain entrenched in memory for a long time to come. And yes it had of course, a dilapidated Eco Club board to begin the story with!

This unfortunately was not that rare a sight ~ 

Bring unclear I immediately said yes to visiting the stream for a bath. After walking about 2 kms most of it downhill we reached a dry stream where water had formed a dirty puddle! This left me and my colleagues speechless! This was what a village of 85 houses had for drinking and bathing in the second week of February. No wonder these people want development – read roads, electricity and similar infrastructure. Here, I had looked amazed when I noticed one of our survey colleagues shaving. He thought I had forgotten my kit and very affectionately offered his. I smiled and thanked but kept wondering - why would someone want to do this voluntarily and here of all places! 

Coming back I sat down to another round of meat only meal. As I started writing I realized that so much or simply too much is shaping up each day!

Day Four here.