Bir . . Beyond Paragliding . .
Bir . . Cafes, Monasteries and more . .
A fun place to walk and cycle is how I would describe Bir in a line. I treasure my walks in and around Bir the most. Slow and aimless walks where both the mind and feet wander. The phone stays shut. The gentle slopes and friendly smiles too have a role to play.
The first time I read of Bir was a few years ago in The Outdoor Journal. I recall being
stunned by an image that showcased humans and birds in the same frame – both up
in the air. I understand Bir’s reputation as THE place for paragliding in the
country, and beyond, has only strengthened since. It is an experience to lie
languorously on one’s back and look at people glide towards what is referred to
as the ‘landing site’. Billing is where the take-off spot is.
Let me chat about the Bir beyond the flying and landing
humans.
Not far from the landing site is the Choukling Monastery.
Bir is also a Buddhist town. One early morning, sitting on a bench here, I
watched people walk in its precincts. They appeared to know each other and
their actions adhered to a pattern. There was a daily rigour to their movements;
a rigour both gentle and pleasant. I watched a girl – aged about 5 – walk
holding an old lady, probably her grandmother. The girl held the hand lovingly,
like children do, and the grandmother kept patting her, like grandmothers do.
As they walked together the grandmother passed on a practice, a ritual, a
culture. This walking together of theirs was a churning crucial for both
generations.
This culture conservation I discussed at the Tibetan Children Village school. Those present
shared about the school’s efforts to conserve their language. One line which stays
with me from the interactions on campus is – Buddhism is getting popular as it
is about questioning and learning by way of debates. The campus has a special
feel to it. As I walked around I came across occupants of the different hostels
getting their meals ready. There was no central kitchen and each hostel decided
their menu and cooked accordingly. Similarly, for cleaning.
The sheer scale of Sherabling
monastery, few kilometers away from the town, is mind-boggling. Each time I visit I am awed by the audacity of
its dreamers and planners. During my first visit when I had asked if I could go
in and whether I needed to remove shoes I was told – just go on and if you see
a notice or few shoes near an entrance do the needful. This, absence of rules
and interference, struck me. I walked across and sat silently at corner in a
large hall where a teaching session was in progress. During the second visit I
came across younger people in action. Some of them cleaned the campus, some
played basketball, while some just appeared to be moving around. Most of them
were in their ‘monk’ robes with jackets and foot-wear of matching colours. The
monastery also boasts of a wonderful Café which serves fresh donuts and carrot
cake. As I sat sipping coffee my ears caught the manager cum baker listening to
Bhojpuri songs!
That was not the only Café at Bir to take me by surprise. As
I sipped coffee and bit into the fresh-out-of-the-oven butter cake at the
Mangala Café I suddenly heard loud and violent screams. I looked up at the
person across the counter who appeared unaffected by the out-of-the-place
sounds. The next time I looked at the direction the sounds came from she smiled
and said – friends are playing PubG.
Talking about food one place I loved and revisited during
both my trips is CloudDoor.
Their masala chai in the chill and rains (each of my trips was during January) worked
wonders for the moment. So did their pizza and sandwich for tired legs and
empty stomach. As if this was not enough there stands a rack with a range of
books. The ambience and conversations with the staff complemented the food.
Winters are also about ice-creams. The Amul store in town is
for some reason better stocked than its sister stores I have been to in larger
towns and cities. Ice-creams perhaps taste better in the chill! The shop owner
narrated his wonder at tourists, primarily western tourists, buying and eating
bitter chocolates. One of them offered him a bit as well and after that
customer left he rushed out to gargle. Kachha karela hi khila do is se to accha
aap mere ko he added.
I visited other monasteries and food places as well but a
bit about logistics now. Bir is about a younger crowd. Cycles are easily
available for hire – I also spotted tourists on the tandem bicycles. More than
a few hostels have come up as well. I stayed at a different Zostel property on each occasion.
Bikes are fun too if one wants to go a little further – Andretta of the blue pottery
fame is one of the options. Bir now has daily buses from Dilli while Pathankot
is the nearest railhead. The best journey I had though was when I returned by
the mountain
train from Baijnath Paprola.
Other pieces on Himachal Pradesh
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