Jaunpur: Of Masjids and Imartis

 

Jaunpur and the magic of Sharqi architecture

 

This piece finds place in Sunday Herald. 

Thanks are due to the team at Deccan Herald.

 

Warm thanks to Sanjay D, Dheeraj, Kumar, Siddhartha and Sanjay M for being together on the trips.  

 

Some images from a previous post on Jaunpur – here.

 

What it is about these old and large masjids that one experiences a unique peace and calm here- a colleague asked. They also appear strong enough to stand tall for another few hundred years at least – remarked another. Three of us were at the Jami Masjid in Jaunpur.

 

We had driven from Banaras. 75 kms. From the town we took the road heading to the airport and went further. Rail is another option: Jaunpur is on the Lucknow – Varanasi route. However, despite this proximity to and connectivity with Banaras Jaunpur lags far behind on the tourism front. Is this despite Banaras or because of Banaras we wondered.

 

On the other hand, these monuments of Jaunpur, possibly the best remaining examples of Sharqi architecture, have been well documented more than a century ago, during the British era. A report from 1900, Indian Architecture (Islamic Period), for example, states of the Jami Masjid, ‘The transept halls of the Jami Masjid present a very interesting study. Unencumbered by pillars or support of any kind, an interior provided with such a clear open space is rare in Indian architecture, and not common anywhere’.

 

We then moved to the Atala masjid – most ornate amongst the structures that remain standing in Jaunpur today. The view from the road is stunning. Inside, the Neem trees together with Sharqi architecture create magic. The main gate was shut. The uncle who allowed us in from the side gate requested us to see the place before the prayers began. These are living moments - in use to this day. History of Indian and Eastern architecture, 1910, states ‘Of all the mosques remaining at Jaunpur, the Atala Masjid, completed in 1408 is the most ornate and the most beautiful. Its interior domes and roofs are superior to any specimen of Muhammadan art I am acquainted with of so early an age’.

Three of us walked around these Masjids – constructed entirely of stone, mortar, and concrete -in awe of the craft of those who had built. We also sat in silence in the courtyards, looking around, with immense appreciation of the setting, an uncommon ambience where grandeur and grace had joined hands.

 

We also wondered how large, affluent and culturally vibrant Jaunpur would have been when these magnificent structures were built? Jaunpur, we later read, during its prime, was famed for not only its army but for being a seat of learning. A place where architecture and arts were encouraged.

 

We also visited the Lal Darwaza Masjid. Lower on scales of opulence and splendour when compared to the other two masjids.

Next, we went to possibly the most striking feature of the town - the bridge over the Gomti. The river associated with Lucknow and one which meets the Ganga near Banaras. Completed in 1568 the bridge continues to enable people to cross the river. If bridges could be quaint, this multicoloured structure is one. The fascinating story of its origin is documented in another more than a century old report, 1889, The Sharqi Architecture of Jaunpur, thus, ‘Akbar, who was very fond of boating, during his excursions saw one night a poor widow lamenting loudly that she could not get ferried across, and the Emperor having taken her over, stationed boats at the ghat for like purposes for the future, but also remarked on the advantages of building a bridge there, somewhat disparaging the former kings for their preference of Masjids’.

 

On the bridge a young man suddenly came up and asked where we were from. Our response, Banaras, for some reason, disappointed him. Another, stared at my camera and then asked if I could click a few of his photographs. Surprised, I politely declined.

 

And, finally the fort with its masjid, hammam and the baradari. We had a chat with an uncle at one of the renovation sites. Attempts, he said, were being made by the Archeological Survey of India, to adhere to the practices of the time when the fort was constructed. As a result, he added, the costs were high. The list of ingredients included methi (fenugreek), bael   murabba (wood-apple jam) and gur (jaggery) amidst others! That late north Indian winter morning, the fort, with its quality maintenance and friendly trees, had an inviting feel. Later at a tea-stall we were told that it is a preferred place for people to walk early mornings.

Before we returned, we took time out for Jaunpur’s famed imartis. Imartis are distinct from jalebis, a sweet they are at times confused with. Also known as jangris, the imartis, unlike the jalebis, are made from urad dal. With their modest appearance they carry a taste to live for! They were good enough for us not only to pack a few kilos but to also agree that one could visit Jaunpur only for these!